Sivananda Ashram, Madurai, India

After spending a day in Chennai, we left for Madurai by train.  Only open tickets without assigned seats were available.  We got to sit on the shelf for luggage.  It was an 8 hour train ride.  Since we could not see the outside, we were watching people.  All women were dressed from top to bottom in clothes made from layers of colorful fabrics and were wearing a lot of gold jewelry.  Even some little girls were wearing eye makeup and some ankle bracelets with bells.  Some men were wearing skirts like in Myanmar, except men sometimes double folded the skirts to make them into miniskirts.  Most Indians eat with their hands.  They wash their hands before and after.  They also pour the water down their throats without touching the bottle or a cup.  We even managed to get a little sleep on the luggage shelf.  We spent $5 for both of us on that 8 hour train ride. 

 We went straight to the Sivananda ashram just outside of Madurai.  It was an hour bus ride, which cost us 50 cents.  People helped us to figure out there to get off, since it was already dark outside.  It took us more than an hour to register for yoga vacation program.  Also, the teacher training was starting the same day.  We learned that about 100 people registered between the 2 programs.  It was the highest amount of people the ashram ever had.  All the beds were full.  Some people who arrived the next day were sent back.  Dangis and I got to sleep in different buildings.  The girls’ dorm was probably twice as big as the boys’.  This was definitely the biggest room I have ever slept in.

The yoga vacation program is offered twice a month.  Its duration is 2 weeks.  Everybody is required to pay for at least 3 days.  The cost of the stay in ashram is $10/day.  The day is filled with mandatory activities that start at 6am and end just before bed time at 10pm.  People started leaving after 3 days.  We originally planned to stay in ashram for the full 2-week program, but later decided to leave after just 6 days. 

Everybody’s favorite activities of the day, besides eating, were yoga classes.  A class lasted almost 2 hours, and was offered twice a day.  Dangis and I decided to go for an intermediate level class, after attending couple of beginner classes.  The intermediate class was always the same.  We always started with the breathing exercises and a few sets of sun salutations, followed by the same postures in the same order.  I felt energized after each class.  I could feel I was getting stronger every time.  On the 5^th day I was able to do an unassisted headstand. 

We ate also twice a day right after the yoga classes.  We were seated on the floor and served vegetarian food.  It was a karma yoga assignment for some of the ashram habitants to serve the food.  They would make rounds offering us more food.  This way everybody could eat as much as they wanted without wasting any food.  The food was nutritious and mostly delicious.  Since we were fed only twice a day, some snacks and fruit were offered for purchase.  We tried not to snack.

After the brunch we had our karma yoga, which consists of different work assignments, such as cleaning, collecting garbage, serving food, or cutting fruits. 

       

In the middle of the day we had a lecture to introduce us to the ashram’s philosophy.  The lectures were interesting, but sometimes too long.  

  

The day started and ended with Satsang, which always lasted from 1.5 to 2 hours.  The Satsang started with a 20 minute meditation, which was followed by chanting.  Then it was time for some more lecturing, more chanting and a prayer.  The Satsangs were my least favorite parts of the day.

The attendance was taken for Satsangs and the lectures.  Those who missed a lecture had to explain themselves to swamis who were in charge of the ashram.  They were given a choice to attend all activities or leave the ashram.  Also, some of the teachers would check the dorms after the Satsang started to make sure that nobody had stayed behind.  So, everybody had to attend Satsangs, and some of them would fall asleep during.

There was some tension staying in the ashram.  We felt great after yoga classes, but we did not enjoy the Satsangs.  That is why we decided to leave after 6 days, instead of staying for the full 2 weeks.  Calling the program yoga vacation was misleading, boot camp would describe the program better.  I am sure we received a lot of benefits from staying in ashram.  We met a lot of nice people, ate healthy, and exercised.  We also unplugged from the outside world having no TV or internet.  I started drawing again during lectures like in old college times.  Dangis and I got to spend some time apart and miss each other a little.  And finally, we got to experience the life in the ashram.  It reminded me a lot of the trips to Taize years ago.