Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Mae Rampung Beach, Rayong, Thailand

We spent a week on Mae Rampung beach, not far from Rayong.  We found this guesthouse online Roots that had great reviews.  Once we arrived, it was closed.  The guesthouse was located just across the street from the beach.  We liked the idea of staying so close to the beach.  We picked a different guesthouse next door- Gee’s Kitchen.  All these guesthouses are old townhouses built under British rule.  The restaurant was on the first floor of each guesthouse with the guest rooms upstairs. 

Our room was on the third floor with a sea view.  We were the only guests in Gee’s Kitchen.  It was still low season; it sometimes rained.  We enjoyed the emptiness, peace and quiet.  We could hear the waves while in our room.  The only problem we had was that we could not swim in the sea.  Every time we tried, we were itchy all over afterwards and had to take a shower right away.  First, we thought the salt could be the reason.  Then we thought maybe it was mosquitoes biting us just before and after swimming.  Finally, we did some research online to find out that the sea lice were biting us, which are invisible to a human eye.  After that, we only went for a walk on the beach. 
 
Later we learned that the owner of Roots, who was a foreigner, disappeared about a year ago.  We talked about the area and Thailand with the retired foreigners who moved there to live.  They also told us that if a foreigner got into an accident in Thailand, he should not stop and just go straight to the airport.  The foreigners would always be considered guilty.  The police is corrupt. 

The locals see the foreigners as bags of money.  I guess they think they should lighten them.  I believe we get special prices for everything.  In some restaurants even menus do not have prices.  The seafood meal cost more than one night in a guesthouse (about 10% of the average Thai salary).  We saw some locals having a feast in those beach restaurants. 

Also, we learned that those restaurants located directly on the beach are illegal.  The beach is a park, and it belongs to the government.  At least, they are keeping a beach clean: collecting garbage and raking pine needles. 

Another observation was that only women live on that beach.  Where did all the men go?  Do they just keep moving from town to town, leaving their children behind?  Every morning the women, who worked in those guesthouses and restaurants, were getting dolled up (putting white powder on their faces, painting their nails, etc.).  At first, we were not sure why, but later we learned that some of them were also prostitutes.  The prostitution in Thailand is officially illegal, but as I mentioned the police officers could be bribed. 

The daughters of the women did work in the guesthouses, too.  They were cleaning and serving meals.  Those foreign retirees were treated like kings.  Most of them had bellies from sitting and drinking beer.  We also saw some younger white men with the local wives and their children walking around and eating in the restaurants.  There were probably more mixed families there with the husband actually present. 

To travel to Phetchaburi (2 hours south of Bangkok), we needed to return to Bangkok first.  In the official information of the Rayong bus station, we asked about the big buses to Bangkok.  We were told a week ago that there was the only one that leaves every morning at 11:30AM.  That day we were told that the big bus would go only at 3PM the next day.  We should take a minibus instead.  Another person told us that the big bus had an accident and the next one would go only at 4PM the next day.  We should take a minibus instead.  Then the same woman told us that there was a big bus standing in the station ready to leave right then.  It seemed as if she told the driver how much to charge us.  It appears that these people get kickbacks from the bus drivers, even the official information straight out lied to us.  So far, getting the information about the bus schedules was the hardest to get.  We probably saw more fancy tour buses everywhere, anyways.

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